New Sponsor - for the next trip?

Ardith Zwiener, Austin, TX $200. Thanks Grandmother

The End of the Trail . . ?

This is Erin here, actually doing her own blog entry for once :) I have made the decision to end my adventure. Yoakum suddenly developed some swelling in his back. It was bad enough that he was limping with just the saddle on. It may come down somewhat in the next few days, but not enough that I'd feel comfortable taking him into the wilderness in Wyoming. Yoakum has also been becoming more and more reluctant to be on the trail, and I think he's just tired, sore, and ready to be done. I am not willing to take the risk of ruining him.

Luckily, when Yoakum's swelling showed up we were only about four miles from a highway. I walked the two of them out with Kershaw carrying the pack saddle and loads, walked back in with him unloaded, picked up the riding saddle and headed back out. Cindy and Duke Wilson who had arranged my resupply in the area picked me up at Willow Creek Pass right on the divide. Between them and the Bennetts, the couple whose place I was to stay at, my mules were taken care of, and I was fed and stuck on a shuttle to Denver. There I caught a plane to Albuquerque, picked up my truck and trailer, and started heading north. Liz and Goat from Wolf Creek Ranch were kind enough to put me up last night. I'll be picking the boys up later today and heading home.

I'm disappointed that we didn't make it to Canada and even more disappointed that an injury stopped us instead of weather. However, I figure doing only half of the insanely difficult crazy goal I set for myself isn't toooooo bad ;) On the up side, I never had to worry about grizzlies. There's always the next trip . . .

I am so proud of Yoakum and Kershaw. They carried my gear and me through country that most pack mules only have nightmares about. I told my father at the beginning of this trip that there were two possibilities for Yoakum after the trip was over. He could be for sale the day I finsihed or be family forever. He's family.

This whole adventure has been an amazing experience. I have learned so much about the backcountry, packing, my own abilities, and the kindness of strangers. This is an experience that I wouldn't trade for anything. I think it's safe to say I won't need to have a midlife crisis in 20 or so years ;) Got it out of my system now.

I am so grateful and flattered at how many people have followed this expedition. It's been very humbling to see how much this trip has meant to so many different people. I've been astonished again and again by the people who have heard of my crazy journey and have cared so much about it.

I'd like to thank all of my sponsors. Your support did so much to help defray the costs of this trip. Thank you also to everyone who's helped me along the way. I never managed to stop anywhere for long without being "adopted" by someone. I'm very grateful to all the people who made my trip easier along the way.

So . . . . . I realized about a week ago that I was really and truly, completely and entirely, bonkers. I started planning the next trip. All of the so-called friends who I made promise to talk me out of ever doing anything like this again are being disloyal and telling me to go for it. I guess the lure of the trail isn't ready to let me go yet.

A dream of mine since I was a little girl is to write for National Geographic. They offer Expedition Grants with a special category for Young Explorers under 25. I applied for one for this expedition and made it through the first round of selection, but not the second. I intend to have a National Geographic Grant for my next adventure. I think I just need to work on my budgeting skills ;)

I'd like to do a historical re-enactment trip of some type. My best idea so far is to follow the route of Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce during their attempt to escape to Canada. I'm also doing research into other potential native american routes and travels of the early mountain men and scouts. If anyone has any good ideas, please contact me!

As for this blog, I'll be filling in some of the holes along the journey with more information about what it was like to be there on the ground and making a few corrections where wires got crossed. There is certainly more to come! I hope y'all keep track of me. I promise to give y'all something interesting in the future! Thanks again

Another Sponsor

Jeff and Kristy Roberts, Eau Claire, WI $200. Wow and thanks!

Rocky Mountain National Park

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK. August 1, 2007. Erin rode through the western edge of RMNP. Due to grazing restrictions it was impractical to ride through the middle of the park. Instead she passed through Grand Lake and stayed with the good people of Winding River Resort (windingriverresort.com). This is a beautiful place to stay. While there Yoakum got new shoes. Without sedation he was a wild man and ended up kicking the farrier in the jaw. The farrier understandably left. Erin and a friend completed the job themselves. The next day she rode through the Bowen Gulch Protection Area into the Never Summer Wilderness following the CDT. She camped at Trout Creek about 4 miles east of Willow Creek Pass and Colorado Highway 125. She has seen no humans in this Wilderness. There were however frogs, deer and a porcupine (cool).

Just received these pictures from a hiker (Emily Ewert) Erin encountered July 19 along the Alpine Tunnel trail.

Sponsor acknowledgement

Deana Guy, Tomball, TX $25. Terrific, thanks.

Ken Shirley, Kingwood, TX $50. Thank you very much.

http://ridethegreatdivide.com/page5.html

Erin in the news

Click on link and read the 2 paragraphs about two thirds of the way through the article.
http://wyomingnews.com/articles/2007/07/13/outdoors/02out_07-11-07.txt

James Peak

JAMES PEAK, JAMES PEAK WILDERNESS July 29, 2007. Erin and the team continued north through the James Peak Wilderness summitting James Peak (ele 13294 ft). there she saw a lone coyote 100 ft below the summit. She rode through stands of Limber and Bristlecone Pine. The bristlecone pines can reach an age far greater than that of any other single living organism known, almost5,000 years. They continued north along the CDT through Devil's Thumb Pass and riding the border of Indian Peaks Wilderness. They had another very bad weather day with hard rain and lightening. Spent a lot of time hunkered down below the tree line to avoid exposure. Yoakum started acting up; he refused for over an hour to ford a silly little stream. Later he "rubbed" Erin off on a tree. Erin tied him to that tree and walked away with Kershaw camping out of sight; no grain and no social exposure for that bad boy overnight.

The next day she entered the Arapaho National Recreation Area. There she met up with her college buddies, Andrea ("The Senator") and Nick. They spent some time in Grand Lake. There Erin encountered an inebriated cowboy who offered to buy her a drink. He asked, "So, you from around here?" Erin replied, "No, just riding through". He slurred, "ridin what?". The answer, "a mule." "Where you coming from?" Answer, "Mexico." He exclaimed, "Holy sh@#t!" and walked away shaking his head very confused.

Berthoud Pass

BERTHOUD PASS, ARAPAHO-ROOSEVELT NATIONAL FOREST. July 27, 2007. The crew rejoined the desiginated trail at Jones Pass (ele 12451) and following the divide and passed along and within the border of Vasquez Peak Wilderness. They experienced a very bad thunderstorm on Stanley Mountain. She had to descend rapidly below the tree line to wait it out. Erin was very suprised by the storm; Erin didn't see it coming since she was riding through fog (clouds) when the storm developed in the very clouds she was riding through.

The next day the trail crossed Colorado Highway 40 at Berthoud Pass; this photo was taken by hiker, Katelin Yates whom met Erin met along the trail. At the pass, there is a highway pullout and scenic overlook. As Erin descended the high and very steep switchbacks a crowd of tourists developed to watch the approaching mountain man riding and leading a mule, only to discover as they neared that it was a woman, and a young woman at that. The amazed crowd gathered around for conversation and pictures with the kids. Tom of Pennsylvania who was out scouting for fall hunting sights took her into Grand Lake to pick up her cache at the post office. He took her to lunch and dinner, and then dropped her off back at the pass. Erin rode 8 more miles and camped at Bill Moore Lake.

Ptarmigan Peak Wilderness

Ptarmigan Peak Wilderness. July 25, 2007. Today Erin emerged from the Eagles Nest Wilderness to meet with a family friend, Carolyn K, in Silverthorne. Carolyn, who is a producer, provided her with a video camera to record some of her travels and travails with the hope that she might be able to make a documentary of Erin's trip. Carolyn also fed her well and reported back to Mom that Erin and crew were whole and doing great.

After their meeting, she headed into the Ptarmigan Peak Wilderness, through Ptarmigan Pass (elev 11,777) to the South Fork of Williams Fork. Erin would like me to report that Wendy's will serve you on a mule in the drive through, while McDonalds (Cuba, NM) refused her drive through service.

Eagles Nest Wilderness

EAGLES NEST WILDERNESS. July 24, 2007. Erin travelled through the Eagles Nest Wilderness along the Gore Trail. She went through Copper Mountain Ski Resort and made a stop at the local Starbucks. She was sipping a frappacino as she and the boys crossed over I70. She also passed though Mt. Hale where the 10th Mountain Division trained. Soldiers were training and Yoakum was spooked by their helmets lying in the middle of the trail and the camo netting they were hanging.

Erin saw a Western Tanager and after hearing their squeaks for weeks, she finally spotted a pica.

Mount Elbert

MOUNT ELBERT, HIGHEST POINT IN COLORADO. July 23, 2007. Erin rode along the eastern edge of Mount Elbert (ele 14433) , passed through Mount Massive Wilderness (ele 14421), and then through a corner of the Holy Cross Wilderness (the 11th and 12 th Wilderness Areas of the trip). They walked over the shallow headwaters of the Arkansas River before crossing over to the western side of The Divide and entering the White River National Forest. They set up camp close to where highway 24 goes through Tennessee Pass which is about 20 miles south of Vail. Rode 36 miles.

Another Sponsor

Brian and Kate Buck, Austin, TX $100. Erin says thank you very much.

Twin Lakes, Colorado

TWIN LAKES, COLORADO. July 22, 2007. Erin rode from Lake Ann to Twin Lakes. She emerged from the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, went over Hope Pass (straight up and staight down) just to the east of Mt Hope (ele 13933) and rode into the little town of Twin Lakes. There she stopped at a local lodge and asked for food to go. They ended up inviting her to stay and "oh, sure put the mules out back." So she got a real room, with a real shower and real hot water.

LaDeux update. The wonder dog was sent home a few weeks ago. There was never a loss of will but the feet gave out. Paw pad toughner and doggy shoes were not enough. When he is not reading this blog he lays by the door dreaming of the mountains and waiting for Erin to come for him.

Collegiate Peaks Wilderness

LAKE ANN, COLLEGIATE PEAKS WILDERNESS, PIKE-SAN ISABEL NATIONAL FOREST, COLORADO. July 21, 2007. From Monarch Pass Erin travelled generally north along the CDT paralleling the divide eventually passing from east to west through Tincup Pass (elevation 12154). Along the way there was a torrential hail storm and a scary lightening storm. She spent a lot of time hunkered down off the ridges. She spent 2 nights near the junction of the CDT and Cottonwood Pass road. There she found the prearranged grain delivery "up the hill, behind the big log, wrapped in a blue tarp." (Thank you Martin Feed). Later she caught a ride into Buena Vista where she did her laundry, did some shopping and caught up with friends and family via cell phone. The next day she entered the spectacularly rugged Collegiate Peaks Wilderness again crossing the divide and camping near Lake Ann to the Southwest of Huron Peak (14003 ft) and on the slopes of The Three Apostles (see photo). The unnamed pass over the divide to Lake Ann seemed higher than the surrounding ridges; was very rough with much talus (a sloping mass of rock debris at the base of a cliff) and 2 foot steps on the switchbacks. Despite not being recommended for stock "The Boys" handled it with minimal difficulty. Each day brings more beautiful and wondrous sights. "It just can't get any more beautiful than this."

The Collegiate Peaks Wilderness may possess the highest average elevation of any wilderness area in the contiguous 48 states. Eight peaks exceeding 14,000 feet are found here, including the state's third and fifth highest summits, Mount Harvard and La Plata Peak. In addition, another half-dozen peaks soar over 13,800 feet. More than 40 miles of the Continental Divide follow the crest of the Sawatch Range in what is arguably the pinnacle of the North American continent, for the divide never reaches a higher point between the Isthmus of Panama and the Arctic Circle than it does in the Sawatch Range. http://www.coloradowilderness.com/wildpages/collegiate.html

Still More Sponsors

Tom Lyon, New Era, MI - $30. Thank you.

Michelle Newlin, Houston, TX $50. Terrific and thanks

Renee and Howard Norris, Spring, TX $50. Thanks.

Barbara Bergin, Austin, TX - $100. Thank you so much.

Jones & Zwiener, Houston, TX - $250. Thanks Uncle Bill.

This goes a long way to defray the costs of this trip. Erin appreciates your help and your interest. http://ridethegreatdivide.com/page5.html

Monarch Pass

NORTH OF MONARCH PASS, PIKE-SAN ISABEL NATIONAL FOREST. July 18, 2007. Big day yesterday, Erin and the boys rode 36 miles crossing over Monarch Pass (ele 11312) at Highway 50. Challenges included trying to figure how to get a grain delivery in the next few days. Lots of Marmots on the trail. Talked to a few mountain bikers.

And More Sponsors

Gila Rangers - Cowboy Action Club, Silver City, NM $25

Jim L. Jones, Silver City, NM $25

Frank and Linda Ferrara, Silver City, NM $50

Not only did they rescue LeDoux the wonder dog but now they have become sponsors. Thank you. Erin very much appreciates it.

http://ridethegreatdivide.com/page5.html

Moose in the beaver pond

GRAND MESA-UNCOMPAHGRE-GUNNISON NATIONAL FOREST. July 16, 2007. Erin and the gang have travelled 40 miles in the last 2 days. They departed Spring Creek Pass and road the combination Continental Divide and Colorado Trail due east to the foot of San Luis Peak (elevation 14014) in the La Garita Wilderness (her 9th Wilderness area). The next day she bisected the La Garita travelling south to north. The real excitement came along Cochetopa Creek when the mules signalled alarm as they approached a beaver pond. There munching on willows was a young bull moose. Erin pulled up to watch and take pictures. The moose became inpatient and took a few steps in there direction which convinced Erin it was time to go. The mules apparently agreed. A mile or so later another moose was encountered along the trail walking through a stand of Aspen. All in all 3 moose were seen today. She camped along Los Creek which is just to the north of Texas Creek and only about 4 miles south of the junction of highway 114 and The Divide. She saw 27 people today, all backpackers. Enjoyed conversation and compared notes with most. Many of these hikers are on a quest to complete the 400 mile Colorado Trail which for the time being follows the Continental Divide Trail.

Spring Creek Pass

-SPRING CREEK PASS. July 14, 2007. On Friday Erin rode through the day and into the night to arrive at the Spring Creek Pass Campground at the junction of the Continental Divide and State Highway 149. The mules were secured tight on a high line. The next morning she was picked up by the family of Philip, Carolyn and Dasha. They provided a place to shower, to do laundry and the "Best Hamburger in all of Lake City". There is nothing like washing away the smell of wet mule accumulated over a week. She picked up her pre-mailed cache of supplies at the post office, her pre-delivered cache of grain at the Sheriff's office, and went shopping. The hero family dropped her off Saturday afternoon to prepare for setting off through the La Garita Wilderness. The weather is supposed to be better.

Headwaters Rio Grande River

HEADWATERS RIO GRANDE RIVER. July 13, 2007. Erin has had 2 pretty tough days. Thunderstorms intermittently. Another mule mutiny - dang mules walked off when given a little freedom to graze prior to loading up yesteday morning. Then a big thunderstorm with lightening causing Erin to seek shelter. When it was over, no @#$% mules in sight. Tracked them back up towards the divide, then another storm and Erin had to descend again to the tent and shelter. The next morning they came wandering innocently back asking for grain.

Because of ongoing storms and very muddy and dangerous trail Erin chose to descend Squaw Creek trail eventually walking the team over the headwaters of the Rio Grande River, leaving the wilderness and camping north of Rio Grande Reservoir on Rio Grande National Forest land. Tomorrow she plans to reascend to the divide and resume the CDT trail.

Squaw Pass

SQUAW PASS, CDT TRAIL, WEMINUCHE WILDERNESS. July 10, 2007. Erin and the crew rode 21 miles today much of it directly on the continental divide. In some areas the trail passes down the middle of wide floating runways. In other places it becomes very narrow such that during a rain storm Erin contemplated that the drops rolling down her left leg were headed for the Pacific and those rolling down the right were headed for the Atlantic Ocean. DEEP. They passed safely through the infamous 'Knifes Edge' where Weminuche lore notes that a string of horses fell to their deaths a few years back. Erin looked over the edge and saw no skeletal remains. There was snow here - so as not to take any chances she pulled out her trusty shovel and spent 45 minutes digging a trench down the middle of the narrow trail before passing safely through the knife. Later, on a wide and flat section Yoakum caught a back leg in boggy ground and went down backwards and sideways throwing Erin to the ground. The saddle iron provided a bruise but no serious damage done to mule or rider. Most of the ride was above tree line. At dusk they descended down to the tree line and camped along Squaw Creek below Chief Mountain (ele 13014). While unpacking Erin was pulling hard on a pack rope, her hand slipped and she ended up socking herself in the face.

The scenery is amazingly beautiful, the weather given the location so far relatively mild.

More Sponsors!

Susan Peters of Monument, CO $30! Thanks

Anonymous Mangas Mountain Rancher, NM $200! Wow and Thanks

For sponsoring info click http://ridethegreatdivide.com/page5.html

Headwaters of the San Juan River

ONE MILE EAST OF PIEDRA PASS, HEADWATERS W FORK SAN JUAN RIVER, WEMINUCHE WILDERNESS. July 9, 2007. Erin travelled 28 miles today with the CDT closely approximating the continental divide. "It is so beautiful it hurts". No matter which way she looks the Rockies are in full splender - snow capped peaks, green flowered meadows, and the beginnings of clear flowing springs. The trail is generally clear of snow, although it did snow/sleet briefly early in the day. She passed the beginnings of dozens of streams; those on the right or north side of the trail flow to the Rio Grande and those on the left or south side flow to the San Juan. That night she camped in close proximity to what is designated as the headwaters of the West Fork of the San Juan River - just a stream formed by snow melt. Her camp elevation was 12,300 feet. There are Colorado Columbines in abundance. She saw a Ptarmigan today as well as several herds of Elk grazing the high pastures. Given the popularity of this segment she actually saw 16 other humans/backpackers (like the mall on Saturday) including one couple (Carol and ?) who are through-hikers having started at the same place Erin did (Columbus, New Mexico).

Weminuche Wilderness

WEMINUCHE WILDERNESS, COLORADO. July 9, 2007. Erin is back on the trail after a reprovisioning and rest stop at the Wolf Creek Ranch near Wolf Creek Pass. Yoakum (the riding mule) was reshod and Kershaw (the 15 year old pack mule) got shoes for the first time in his life. While there Erin was put to work helping to set up for a local wedding. She braided the manes and tails of the carriage horses and did other odd jobs. She was provided with a moose-leather shirt to wear to make her presentable to the guests. For several days she was the guest of Liz and her husband "Goat". Very wonderful people who were very helpful.

Erin is in the Weminuche Wilderness Colorado's largest at more than half a million acres. The Continental Divide Trail runs through the heart of the area for approximately 80 miles. Initially the trail and Divide bear due west, eventually making a great arch before heading back due east to "get around" the headwaters of the Rio Grande River. This is a very popular part of the CDT. Erin will see occassional hikers along the way.

Wolf Creek Ranch

WOLF CREEK RANCH, COLORADO. July 3, 2007. For the last few days Erin has enjoyed some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. The CDT and the continental divide are in close proximity; the trail passed by Blue Lake (ele 11463) and Lake Ann (ele 11920 ft) and around peaks such as Summit Peak (13300 ft) and Montezuma Peak (ele 13150 ft). There were multiple passes including Gunsight Pass, Elwood Pass, Bonito Pass, Silver Pass, and Railroad Pass. The trail criss-crossed the divide alternating between the eastern and western drainages. She emerged from the the Wilderness and crossed over Highway 160 at Wolf Creek Pass. Erin is the quest of "Goat" and Liz at Wolf Creek Ranch. There she found very kind and like-minded people, a warm shower, a laundry, and a clean bed. She will take time to rest and reshod the animals, reprovision and plan for the next segment.

Liz and Goat (see photo) have offered to help other CDT through-hikers/riders. They are "happy to give a hand to anyone that might be doing the trail." The website is wolfcreekranchco.com and their email - wcrtrailrides@hotmail.com.

Erin has ridden 700 miles, has passed through 7 wilderness areas (Aldo Leopold, Gila, Cebolla, San Pedro Parks, Chama Canyon River, Cruces Basin and South San Juan) and 7 national forests (Gila, Apache, Cibola, Santa Fe, Carson, Rio Grande and San Juan).

South San Juan Wilderness

SOUTH SAN JUAN WILDERNESS, COLORADO. July 1, 2007. "The beauty is breathtaking." Erin rode over a ridge to see Blue Lake with the sun shining perfectly so as to create a perfect reflection of the snow capped peaks beyond the lake. She saw 2 bull elk (a 5 and a 6 pointer), lots of marmots, Forget me nots, and a horned lark. She is on the official CDT trail with occassional reassuring markers. Traveled 23 miles today. Was slowed down some by snow banks covering the trail. Actually got snow in her boots and she was riding Yoakum. The soggy patches where the snow has melted are also difficult for the animals. She is expecting it to freeze tonight. Elevations are in excess of 10,000 ft.

Many call the South San Juan Wilderness Colorado's wildest corner. The landscape of volcanic peaks and cliffs poses a formidable barrier to travel. Of all the places in Colorado likely to still harbor North America's most fearsome creature, the rugged and remote southern San Juan Mountains seem best suited. A great bear was killed here in 1979, the last known Colorado grizzly.

Cumbres Pass, Colorado

CUMBRES PASS, RIO GRANDE NATIONAL FOREST, COLORADO. June 30, 2007. Erin has left New Mexico behind and has entered Colorado. The Carson National Forest segment over the last 3 days was much more difficult than anticipated with disappearing trail and horse impassable sections. At one narrow section of trail - low overhang on the right and sharp drop off on the left she unloaded Kershaw and walked him through. She reloaded the animals only to find the trail a mile later to be completely and impossibly impassable for animals. She had to turn around, unload, walk the animals back through, slog the packs herself and reload yet again. At another point she actually walked over 10 miles leading the animals because the trail was so bad. Along the way she ran into 3 fisherman on horseback. They provided dinner (lamb) and breakfast as well as suggestions for the next days route. For a while she road along side the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad. Once in Colorado the official National Divide Trail became better marked and better maintained - that is until she came to 1/2 mile of blown down trees; this area took 2 hours to pick her way through. The trail now is never below 10,000 feet. The terrain is alpine; riding in a out of the tree line. The nights very chilly. She saw a baby newborn elk today. She camped below Jarosa Peak (ele 11,766 ft). "One state down, 4 to go."

Ghost Ranch

Ghost Ranch, Carson National Forest. June 25, 2007. Erin spent the night at this conference center then took off north through the Carson National Forest. Yoakum lost 2 shoes on the first day out of Ghost Ranch. So far the trails are dirt with little rock and the absence of foot wear does not seem to be bothering him. A farrier has been arranged for the next stop. She sees elk most days and saw her first snow of the trip.

Check out her progress (the red line); almost out of New Mexico.

San Pedro Parks Wilderness

San Pedro Parks Wilderness. June 24, 2007. After leaving her new friends in Cuba, Erin entered the San Pedro Parks Wilderness. For part of the way she was accompanied by a "through hiker", Rhodes. The elevations average 10,000 feet in San Pedro Parks Wilderness without the peaks and cliffs. Instead, there are high, moist, rolling mountaintops with numerous meadows and large grassy "parks" with lots of trees and trout filled streams. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail crosses through the Wilderness from Cuba, NM to the Carson National Forest.

Cuba, New Mexico

Erin is staying at the Circle A Ranch Hostel and reprovisioning in Cuba. The elevation is higher, the temperatures are cooler, the streams have water, and the Ponderosa pines are back. She has completed the technically toughest part of the trip so far. After crossing many miles of dry canyon and mesa land she encountered the last barrier along this segment of the CDT; a large mesa with a steep approach. She decided to give it a try. At 30 feet up the steep incline, Kershaw fell, first sliding down with all four legs splayed then rolling over coming to rest against a larger bolder. He then recovered his feet and gained a flat spot. Injuries were minor, scraps and cuts. He is OK. Lesson there are some places even mules can't go.

Erin then planned an alternate route eastward around the mesa toward the highway leading into Cuba. There she inadvertantly crossed onto private property, had a discussion with the landowner where she ardently apologized and reaffirmed her belief in property rights, the American Dream, gun rights, the right to privacy, and free speech. In Cuba she met with a local physician who is also a supporter and organizer the CDT through this area. He was very interested in her experiences and troubles with hiker's gates and the lack of consideration given to riders. A local couple took her out for Mexican food and provided a place for the mules. The next day she met with a forest service official who was also very interested in her experiences.

In the news

June 23,2007. Erin is in the paper. http://www.topix.net/content/smalltown/2007/06/adventurer-following-continental-divide-on-horseback

Sponsorship announcement

Pie Town, New Mexico. June 22, 2007. Larry Moss of Hitching Post Land Company (http://www.swproperties.com/) claims the honor of first donor ($25) to ridethegreatdivide.com. Thank you.

Snakes, gates, and summer bakes

NORTHWEST NEW MEXICO. June 20, 2007. Erin, Yoakum and Kershaw ascended the trail over Mt Taylor and camped at American Canyon. Since then they have left the national forest lands and entered BLM land following the cairned trail with occassional but very reassuring CDT emblems on the very occassional juniper tree. The temperature is hot and water is scarce. A particularly loud cicada turned out to be a rather large rattlesnake. Erin's heart quickened but the mules just walked around it. The land is dry, cut by numerous arroyos and canyons, and topped by mesas. Erin has been careful to carry extra water for herself and to plan the days rides to provide water for the animals; there are occassional springs, stock tanks and windmills. Some days there have been few grazing opportunities so the mules are depending on the feed that Kershaw is packing. Challenges and frustrations for the week have been a series of zigzag "hiker's gates" along the trail which allow a hiker to pass a fence line but prevent the passage of horses or mules. Erin has had to improvise - often times riding way out the way to get around. She finds herself dreaming of the open mountain pack trails, running streams, and cooler temperatures just ahead.

Mt. Taylor

MOUNT TAYLOR, June 15, 2007.
Erin camped at the Lobo Canyon campground at the southwestern base of Mount Taylor (named for President Zachary Taylor). To get there she had a long ride up highway 117 to Grants, New Mexico where she crossed over IH 40. On the way through Grants they rode right by 2 prisons complete with guard towers, razor wire and detainees pumping iron in the yard. She entered Cibola National Forest getting off the highway and back on "real trail".

Cebolla Wilderness

CEBOLLA WILDERNESS, NORTH PASTURE. June 13, 2007. After Pie Town, Erin, Yoakum, Kershaw and LeDoux headed north down a county road through a stretch of private land eventually entering BLM land adjacent to the Cebolla Wilderness. There was a brief personality conflict between the 2 mules - a bit of kicking and biting- getting to know each other. The next day the team entered and passed thru the wilderness travelling 30 miles; they exited at a beautiful expansive lowland call North Pasture camping below some cliffs at its northern edge. In North Pasture a black calf who was separated from his mother adopted Kershaw (a black mule) as his mother, following him along the trail for over a mile; Kershaw refused the deal slinging a hind foot towards the calf repeatedly. The calf eventually accepted rejection and headed back up the valley. Erin in a blatant attempt to get a corporate sponsor quenched her thirst in a commercial pose for Gatorade. The place is adjacent to the El Malpais (bad land) National Monument, an enormous stretch of porous lava rock that is not negotiable by horse or even mules.