Cumbres Pass, Colorado

CUMBRES PASS, RIO GRANDE NATIONAL FOREST, COLORADO. June 30, 2007. Erin has left New Mexico behind and has entered Colorado. The Carson National Forest segment over the last 3 days was much more difficult than anticipated with disappearing trail and horse impassable sections. At one narrow section of trail - low overhang on the right and sharp drop off on the left she unloaded Kershaw and walked him through. She reloaded the animals only to find the trail a mile later to be completely and impossibly impassable for animals. She had to turn around, unload, walk the animals back through, slog the packs herself and reload yet again. At another point she actually walked over 10 miles leading the animals because the trail was so bad. Along the way she ran into 3 fisherman on horseback. They provided dinner (lamb) and breakfast as well as suggestions for the next days route. For a while she road along side the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad. Once in Colorado the official National Divide Trail became better marked and better maintained - that is until she came to 1/2 mile of blown down trees; this area took 2 hours to pick her way through. The trail now is never below 10,000 feet. The terrain is alpine; riding in a out of the tree line. The nights very chilly. She saw a baby newborn elk today. She camped below Jarosa Peak (ele 11,766 ft). "One state down, 4 to go."

Ghost Ranch

Ghost Ranch, Carson National Forest. June 25, 2007. Erin spent the night at this conference center then took off north through the Carson National Forest. Yoakum lost 2 shoes on the first day out of Ghost Ranch. So far the trails are dirt with little rock and the absence of foot wear does not seem to be bothering him. A farrier has been arranged for the next stop. She sees elk most days and saw her first snow of the trip.

Check out her progress (the red line); almost out of New Mexico.

San Pedro Parks Wilderness

San Pedro Parks Wilderness. June 24, 2007. After leaving her new friends in Cuba, Erin entered the San Pedro Parks Wilderness. For part of the way she was accompanied by a "through hiker", Rhodes. The elevations average 10,000 feet in San Pedro Parks Wilderness without the peaks and cliffs. Instead, there are high, moist, rolling mountaintops with numerous meadows and large grassy "parks" with lots of trees and trout filled streams. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail crosses through the Wilderness from Cuba, NM to the Carson National Forest.

Cuba, New Mexico

Erin is staying at the Circle A Ranch Hostel and reprovisioning in Cuba. The elevation is higher, the temperatures are cooler, the streams have water, and the Ponderosa pines are back. She has completed the technically toughest part of the trip so far. After crossing many miles of dry canyon and mesa land she encountered the last barrier along this segment of the CDT; a large mesa with a steep approach. She decided to give it a try. At 30 feet up the steep incline, Kershaw fell, first sliding down with all four legs splayed then rolling over coming to rest against a larger bolder. He then recovered his feet and gained a flat spot. Injuries were minor, scraps and cuts. He is OK. Lesson there are some places even mules can't go.

Erin then planned an alternate route eastward around the mesa toward the highway leading into Cuba. There she inadvertantly crossed onto private property, had a discussion with the landowner where she ardently apologized and reaffirmed her belief in property rights, the American Dream, gun rights, the right to privacy, and free speech. In Cuba she met with a local physician who is also a supporter and organizer the CDT through this area. He was very interested in her experiences and troubles with hiker's gates and the lack of consideration given to riders. A local couple took her out for Mexican food and provided a place for the mules. The next day she met with a forest service official who was also very interested in her experiences.

In the news

June 23,2007. Erin is in the paper. http://www.topix.net/content/smalltown/2007/06/adventurer-following-continental-divide-on-horseback

Sponsorship announcement

Pie Town, New Mexico. June 22, 2007. Larry Moss of Hitching Post Land Company (http://www.swproperties.com/) claims the honor of first donor ($25) to ridethegreatdivide.com. Thank you.

Snakes, gates, and summer bakes

NORTHWEST NEW MEXICO. June 20, 2007. Erin, Yoakum and Kershaw ascended the trail over Mt Taylor and camped at American Canyon. Since then they have left the national forest lands and entered BLM land following the cairned trail with occassional but very reassuring CDT emblems on the very occassional juniper tree. The temperature is hot and water is scarce. A particularly loud cicada turned out to be a rather large rattlesnake. Erin's heart quickened but the mules just walked around it. The land is dry, cut by numerous arroyos and canyons, and topped by mesas. Erin has been careful to carry extra water for herself and to plan the days rides to provide water for the animals; there are occassional springs, stock tanks and windmills. Some days there have been few grazing opportunities so the mules are depending on the feed that Kershaw is packing. Challenges and frustrations for the week have been a series of zigzag "hiker's gates" along the trail which allow a hiker to pass a fence line but prevent the passage of horses or mules. Erin has had to improvise - often times riding way out the way to get around. She finds herself dreaming of the open mountain pack trails, running streams, and cooler temperatures just ahead.

Mt. Taylor

MOUNT TAYLOR, June 15, 2007.
Erin camped at the Lobo Canyon campground at the southwestern base of Mount Taylor (named for President Zachary Taylor). To get there she had a long ride up highway 117 to Grants, New Mexico where she crossed over IH 40. On the way through Grants they rode right by 2 prisons complete with guard towers, razor wire and detainees pumping iron in the yard. She entered Cibola National Forest getting off the highway and back on "real trail".

Cebolla Wilderness

CEBOLLA WILDERNESS, NORTH PASTURE. June 13, 2007. After Pie Town, Erin, Yoakum, Kershaw and LeDoux headed north down a county road through a stretch of private land eventually entering BLM land adjacent to the Cebolla Wilderness. There was a brief personality conflict between the 2 mules - a bit of kicking and biting- getting to know each other. The next day the team entered and passed thru the wilderness travelling 30 miles; they exited at a beautiful expansive lowland call North Pasture camping below some cliffs at its northern edge. In North Pasture a black calf who was separated from his mother adopted Kershaw (a black mule) as his mother, following him along the trail for over a mile; Kershaw refused the deal slinging a hind foot towards the calf repeatedly. The calf eventually accepted rejection and headed back up the valley. Erin in a blatant attempt to get a corporate sponsor quenched her thirst in a commercial pose for Gatorade. The place is adjacent to the El Malpais (bad land) National Monument, an enormous stretch of porous lava rock that is not negotiable by horse or even mules.

Back on the trail

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL, CENTRAL NEW MEXCO, JUNE 12, 2007. Erin is back on the trail. Thanks to Steve Benson and Theresa Carr of Mimbres an appropriate replacement for Rua was found. Yoakum has been promoted to a riding mule; he likes his new position in the lead. The new guy is Kershaw (another country western star) nicknamed 'Lil Mule'. He is 15 year mule originally obtained at a BLM auction as a young colt - occassionally wild donkeys and horses get together. Kershaw has a very cool BLM freeze brand on his neck. The folks at Pie Town Cafe were glad to see Erin - they were kind enough to buy her breakfast and provided a free Pie Town bumper sticker. Developing.............

Time out

June 6, 2007. Erin has spent the last several days considering her options. Rua will not be able to continue; she will be OK but her front leg is not sound enough for a long ride. An appropriate replacement has been located. Erin expects to be back in the saddle in a few days.

LeDoux takes a side trip to Silver City

--PIE TOWN, NEW MEXICO. May 30, 2007. Day 24. A joyful reunion with LeDoux. He and Erin became separated in the dark almost 2 weeks ago while coming down McKnight Canyon to Mimbres. She with the help of the Sova's spent the weekend looking for him. The following is the account of his rescue as submitted by Frank Ferrera of Silver City New Mexico.

Found Wednesday morning, May 23rd (5 days after he was lost), relaxing on the porch of the backwoods clubhouse of the Gila Rangers Cowboy Action Shooting Club of Silver City. The range is located in Water Canyon on the Fowler ranch in the Mimbres Valley about 35 miles north of Silver City. A work party of Gila Rangers arrived that day to do some rebuilding of the shooting facilities where they hold monthly Cowboy Action Shooting matches. This range was also the venue of the Single Action Shooting Society (SASS) 2003, 4, and 5 New Mexico State Championship for Cowboy Action Shooting. (www.gilarangers.com) LeDoux looked a bit undernourished from his 5 day ordeal, still wearing his makeshift booties to protect his feet from the long journey. Frank Ferrara, a local retiree, Gila Ranger officer, volunteer Fireman and Search and Rescue member, 'rescued' the K-9 and returned to Silver City, before contacting LeDoux's 'grandparents'. Frank's dogs Cisco and Cody, are quite interested in the new house guest. A quick bath and some dinner will hold LeDoux until reunion arrangements can be made.

Frank and his good friend and companion, Jim Jones drove 400 miles round trip today effecting the happy reunion. Jim has the saddle experience on similar rides and wanted to meet the Traveler.

Mangas Mountains

NORTH OF LITTLE ALEGRES MTN IN THE MANGAS MOUNTAINS. May 29, 2007. Day 23. Erin rode out of the Apache National Forest onto county roads through of a stretch of private land. Rua came up lame after only 10 miles. Erin is camped as a guest of Jim S. on his Ranch just north of Mangas Mountain on the road to Pie Town. The best assessment is that Rua has a slightly infected cut which should heal rapidly. Jim and his family have invited Erin to dinner (you guessed it, steak). Tomorrow if necessary they will call for the vet. Jim told Erin "you are more trouble than a lady with a flat tire."

Apache National Forest

APACHE NATIONAL FOREST. May 28, 2007. Day 22. Erin and the crew left the Gila National Forest and crossed SH 12 entering Apache National Forest. Had cell phone service while riding up Forest Service Road with plans to camp at Mangas Mountain (elevation 9691). Saw a small bull elk today.

John Kerr Peak

JOHN KERR PEAK, GILA NATIONAL FOREST. May 27th, 2007. Day 21.

Erin and the gang made 23 spectacular miles plus a few extra for an unintended side trip when the rock cairns marking the trail were misleading. For most of the day she did "Ride The Great Divide"; for this segment, the trail and the ridge that is The Divide are almost the same. They rode through ancient juniper forest, then Ponderosa and Douglas Fir forest, then upland oak savanah. The animal for the day was the Hooded Oriole. So far no wolves. At dark they turned off the trail to find water at a tank at the southern foot of John Kerr Peak (elevation 8868 ft). Yoakum behaved today.

Snow Lake

SNOW LAKE, GILA NATIONAL FOREST. May 26, 2007. Day 20.

Erin rode 23 miles continuing up the Middle Fork of the Gila and emerging from the wilderness at Snow Lake in the Gila National Forest. A beautiful place. Several humans camped around the lake. North of there she met 3 families camping together with kids. She stopped for a while and you guessed it, she got fed - ham and turkey sandwich, ice cream drumstick and a Margarita Cooler. They gave her Oryx Jerkey for the road. She continued on up forest service road 28 past the Negrito work center eventually camping about a mile south of Eckleberger Hill (elevation 8454 ft). She saw numerous Blue Grosbeaks today; a new bird for her. Surroundings are that of a Ponderosa parkland. Animals cooperating.

Middle Fork Gila River

MIDDLE FORK GILA RIVER, GILA WILDERNESS. May 24th and 25th, 2007. Days 18 and 19.
On day 18 Erin reluctantly left Jordan Hot Springs behind and continued upstream along the Middle Fork of the Gila River camping a few miles south of Snow Lake and the wilderness area boundary. That night the dang mule "broke into" the grain stores; seeing no reason to hang around camp he took a sight seeing trip up and out of the canyon. Erin awoke to the absence of animals. She tracked them down; they were not impressed by her offers of grain so capture was delayed for hours. She camped at the same spot. Given the mule's (Yoakum) repeated transgressions and his role as ring-leader he will no longer be out of a halter and at night will always be hobbled or on a high line. He cannot be trusted to graze close by. Bad mule.

Jordan Hot Springs

MIDDLE FORK GILA RIVER, GILA WILDERNESS. May 23, 2007. Day 17.

Erin and the team followed Spring Canyon to the west until reaching the middle fork of the Gila then followed the trail upstream to Jordan Hot Springs. She camped on the high ground across the river from the springs. Although this tends to be a popular spot with hikers she had it all to herself. The river is perhaps 30 yards wide and at most waist deep with many more shallower fords. Trout are easily visible from the bank. The middle fork canyon is 'ridiculously beautiful.' Erin spent the evening writing in her journal. No human contact today.

East Fork Gila River

GILA WILDERNESS AREA. May 22, 2007, Day 16. Erin rode into the Gila Wilderness Area today and camped on the East Fork of the Gila River just south of Spring Canyon. The river is modest perhaps a 50 ft wide and shallow with many spots to ford. She saw more Elk.

She got there by travelling north on 150 for about 2 miles, then taking the second trail, Tom Moore trail to the west then zigzagging to the SW to the river.

She ran into a pair of outfitters and their 2 quests. Becky and Daniella are with Gila Hotsprings Outfitters. Erin was invited into their outfitter's cabin (a backcountry private land enclave) and had Beef Stroganoff for dinner.

Over The Great Divide

ALDO LEOPOLD WILDERNESS AREA, May 21, 2007. Day 15. Erin rode 22 miles today -on and over the Continental Divide.

She said goodbye to Fred and Shirley Sova riding northwesterly up the Mimbres River Canyon. After entering the Aldo Leopold Wilderness Area she turned north up Corral Canyon, then to the west up Cooney Canyon and up over the ridge line onto the Continental Divide itself. She rode The Continental National Scenic Trail north northeast over Signboard Saddle (elevation 8500 ft). She veared North northwest onto the Aspen Canyon trail leaving the wilderness area and merging with Black Canyon and eventually camping at the Lower Black Canyon Campground just to the south of Forest Service Rd 150.

There were juniper woodlands, Ponderosa Pine, and Cottonwoods. She saw a small herd of elk and bear tracks. All the streams are flowing; water is plentiful. Temperatures are 40s at night and "pretty hot" during the day.